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鼎源茶訊

普洱茶生茶和熟茶的區別 這5點是關鍵!【百福藏倉鼎源茶訊】

普洱茶是眾所周知的茶葉,同時也是飲用廣泛的一個茶類。一直以來生茶好還是熟茶好?生茶與熟茶的區別,一直都是自帶熱搜體質的問題。

今天,國家高級評茶師、旗艦店“普洱藏家”掌櫃、世界茶文化交流協會副會長魯文鋒老師,就來講講生茶與熟茶的區別。

魯文鋒老師自1998年進入普洱茶領域,成為“普洱教父”白水清嫡傳弟子,歷年藏有百年宋聘號、1950年紅印、88青餅、92方磚等老茶,並把多年研究普洱茶心得,整理髮佈在工·眾·號:普洱藏家,與茶友分享。

百福藏倉普洱茶

百福藏倉普洱茶

一、生茶與熟茶的定義

生茶與熟茶的定義可能因製作時用科學加上人為發酵法,讓茶性、茶質刺激性退化導致茶湯入口時感覺軟化,使苦感與澀度減輕,所以熟茶品在市面上約有8成以上之消費者喜愛。

 

則是需要以長時間自然乾淨的環​​境來陳放做後發酵作用,在等待漫漫歲月裡,喝掉一片即減少一片的情況下,經30~50年後能保留下來的又有幾片呢?

況且擁有清末、民初之百年古董級茶品的茶友們,也隨著市場流通漸少,而大家擁茶自重,好茶也因此更顯得彌足而珍貴。

由於生熟之不同,其滋味亦略異,有的必須要清新軟水(熟茶品),有的口味重入口要刺激而略帶苦澀,稍後舌面生津,苦味回甘(20年~30年以內之生茶品),有的則講究甘潤而有回味,口腔有充足的陳年香味使喉韻有滿足的感覺。

如此接近完美的印級以上之陳年古董茶,苦澀味重且持久不退,茶湯火味重,且異味濃,久而不退者則非佳茗。

何謂喝好茶?真正買對茶才只是開始【百福藏倉鼎源茶訊】

 

二、因發酵程度輕重及時間長久而呈現不同的水色

普洱茶生茶和熟茶的茶湯普洱茶品因發酵程度輕重及時間長久而呈現不同的水色。

1、熟茶品

新茶:陳化期短,茶湯水濃,新茶品有未經時間陳化的茶菁味道。

陳茶:陳化期不足,回味度差,但苦、澀味道已經淡化,感覺入喉順口。

老茶:陳化期足,水性厚,茶質佳,唯回甘生津度不及生茶品強。

2、生茶品

新茶:色如台灣高山茶淡黃,人口澀感強烈。

陳茶:色如鐵觀音琥珀黃,入口澀感轉為甘甜

老茶:色棗紅紅蜜色,入口順滑轉為生津。

古董茶:濃郁且滑口,舌底鳴泉,心曠神怡。但茶色不能有渾濁,需略帶澄清鮮亮帶油旋光性。

三、普洱茶生茶和熟茶的沖泡方法

1、普洱熟茶

新熟茶沖泡:通過高溫(沸水)洗茶除去雜味,略降溫沖飲。沖泡時間不宜太長,以避免苦澀味出現。一些發酵程度稍輕的茶也可適當在前三衝半開蓋,以保持茶湯的鮮甜感,同時開蓋也有利於熟味兒的散發。

老熟茶沖泡:沖泡老熟普可以採取高溫洗茶,高溫沖泡,低衝注水,快速出湯。

2、普洱生茶

新生茶沖泡:在90~95攝氏度之間為宜,避免水溫過高產生“燙熟味”,原則上滋味濃強的水溫略低,浸泡時間要短,滋味清淡的則相反。

老生茶沖泡:相對來說,老生茶投茶量要低於老熟茶,而沖泡水溫老熟茶要略高。對於許多老生茶,在泡與泡的間隔開蓋,使葉底稍稍降溫後再續泡,會有不一樣的感覺。低衝注水,沸水沖泡,適當悶泡。

普洱茶葉浸泡時間的長短,直接關係著茶湯中可溶物的量與質,也會直接影響茶湯的質量。浸泡時間與茶葉用量、水溫、茶葉粗嫩與鬆緊有關。

經由緊壓工序的普洱茶最好先在1~2週之前將其全部撥開透、回性;待舊味退去,使新的空氣進入發酵後再置入陶罐或紫砂罐內保存陳放,普洱茶之原味將會慢慢呈現,泡茶時茶葉只要放置沖泡茶壺的五分之一茶量即可(散茶需要多放一點,約四分之一或三分之一的量)。普洱茶葉放得多,浸泡時間就要縮短。

緊壓茶如磚、餅、沱茶的沖泡時間可短些,不可與普洱散茶一樣,否則茶湯的濃度太高而不堪入口(若對茶性不了解,可以先以少量,慢慢對茶品有概念後,再發揮熟悉的方法將普洱茶表現到完美境界)。

當然,可依個人喜好之茶湯濃淡、普洱茶品之生熟、陳期之長短、茶性之強弱,去調整茶葉用量及浸泡時間以求其“適口”習慣的濃度。

奉茶文化(7)

四、普洱生熟茶的香氣

1、普洱熟茶:

普洱茶生茶和熟茶的香氣辨識多為參香、豆香、陳香、棗香、樟香等。

2、普洱生茶:

多為毫香、花香、蜜香、荷香、清香、栗香、陳香等;

由於香氣類型不同,如將普洱生茶和熟茶混合存放,香氣物質必然會交叉吸附,相互掩蓋或改變,難以獲得純正自然的香氣。

普洱茶的茶香氣有別於台灣高山茶之清香優雅,新製成之普洱茶香味與台灣茶略為相似。只因普洱茶須藉由空氣中之適量水分,來做後發酵之工序,達到越陳越香之效果。所以普洱茶的香氣是茶品本身所含有的芳香物質,歷經陳化時間之長短、倉儲環境之好壞,再經沸水沖泡而散發出的自然氣味;這些氣味吸入鼻腔後喚醒味覺,經由大腦判別香味、判別陳化年份及發酵完整與否感覺。

五、普洱茶生茶和熟茶的葉底

普洱茶生茶和熟茶的葉底以手指試捏沖泡過後的茶葉底,一般以彈性強為佳,表示茶菁幼嫩,製造得宜,倉儲良好發酵完整然,自為上品普洱茶。

普洱熟茶:發酵程度較好的普洱熟茶,葉底顏色一般都呈“豬肝色”,並隨儲藏年份增加逐漸向暗褐色轉化。

濕倉普洱熟茶:因茶湯多半平淡無味且不耐泡。葉底呈現暗栗黑色,沖泡後捏茶底感覺無彈性,乾軟碎爛。

普洱生茶:葉底顏色,隨儲藏時間加深,從嫩綠-嫩黃-杏黃-暗黃-黃褐-紅褐,逐漸變化。

濕倉普洱生茶:此乃投機方式造假方法之一,企圖縮短陳化期,以達到經濟效益,能快速人工老化,達到銷售的目的。

乾倉普洱生茶:製造技術良好,茶湯濃郁,可沖泡次數亦多。

古茶魂茶

古茶魂茶

基本上普洱茶存放的時間愈久,氧化作用的程度愈高,代表發酵度愈好,茶湯滋味愈醇和刺激性愈小。

普洱茶的製作在以前並沒有生熟之分,它是將曬菁毛茶滇青精製,經蒸氣炊軟之後,放入布袋揉壓成所要形狀,再置於乾燥地方自然陰乾。等待後續的自然發酵。

早期普洱茶的氧化變色作用,一方面是在蒸揉塑形後長時間自然陰乾過程的表現,另一方面是在馬幫長時間運輸過程中轉變(接觸到空氣中水份濕度而氧化)。

因歷史上早期雲南(雲貴高原)對外交通不便,茶葉需長年累月用馬幫馱運到外地。

加上思茅、西雙版納一帶空氣濕潤,茶葉在長途運輸過程中成份(果膠質、咖啡因、茶單寧、兒寧素…等)自然轉換發酵,慢慢將新茶之菁味刺激性退化,形成了普洱茶獨特的色澤及風味。

資料來源:財經新聞周刊網

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